Monday, October 25, 2010

By The By...


I happen to have a stock-pile of stock-boards right now, if you have something in particular that you're looking for send me an email and I may just have something for you!

5'6 velosim v.2, 7'6 vampire, 6'6 hullibut, 5'5 velosim w/geppy glassons, 7' pintail hull, 6'7 stage III flextail, 8'6 transitionhull, 9' d.Bowls...etc etc etc!!!


Saturday, October 23, 2010

FSpoon


4'11 FlexSpoon v.2 for Cheyne down south; C took this shot the night after picking it up from me in malibu...pretty f*in schweet!

Friday, October 22, 2010

Vision

When I got into hulls I knew I found my love within surfing, it just fealt right on the shaping racks, in my arms, and in the water was a whole new realm of possiblities. I loved the idea and the application and feel so much I knew it would keep my head busy for a long time.

I never wanted to change hulls or the ideals or style, they are perfect. I just set out on a course to find out what else I can infuse with the same theories and foils to appease my curiosity for the shape.

What ended up happening was one board that has spawned nearly every hull model that I list on my website, and it the base point for most boards that are put together on the spot for fun. The board is question, and pictured below, is 6'5" x 23" x 2 7/8" if I remember correctly. It was based off of a Greenough template with a slightly pulled in nose and tail with a very slight hip at the back foot/front of the fin. It was fully hulled out, with thin rails and a very hard edge and down rail in the tail for some release.


(OG #1)



After surfing that board for a full winter, I decided the second version should be more pulled in, a little longer, and have more freedom off the back foot; so the Fishull was born.


(Fishull #1)

I kept the hip, hard edge, slightly down pinched rails, low rocker, hulled out with a single to double concave from the front foot through the tail. Essentially what I was doing was building my own kind of transitional hulls with modern tweaks for more release and response if you crank one off the back foot. That 6'7" has been my goto board for the last two years now if I don't know what the conditions are gonna be doing.

This small thread of evolution within my own experience will, i'm sure, shape the future of what I do.

Here is a new 6'3 Fishull that'll be kicking around the shop and the local points as a demo board for the winter:



Loving the curves on this one as it haunts me in the shop before the waves come again.....

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Flex My Tail


Here we've got a 5'0 flextail fishy kneeboard project, nearing completion as of yesterday...This one is rather fun looking and is one of a buttload of interesting boards floating around the shop; it's prime visit/view time for some goodness...


Speaking of goodness, enjoy the new header!

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Follow Your Nose

Herbie says going left is good for your health every now and then........I guess he has a point.




get it?


a point?


'cause he's pointing....left...


...classic Herbie.


Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Visits

Alex Swanson shot some really nice photos while I shaped a new asym. board for myself and the useage of many other folks...




Trevor has been shredding one that we made a few weeks ago, this one will be a bit bigger; T's being 5'1" at the longest point.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Perfecting the 24 Hour Road Trip

First do some work to relive whatever guilty residue you may acquire from a thoroughly un-planned wednesday afternoon,
a 5' kneeboard will do the trick:


Then, keep your eyes on the horizon and find some waves..........................this is key.


Get at least one set wave, relax with your friends on the beach, and finish your evening with some fooding.

Then go see your outrageous friend's debut show at a seedy back alley, upstairs, UBER hip club and proceed to jam the F*CK out:


Sleep, or walk around Hollywood blvd. 'till the wee hours of the night.
In the morning, take Herbie to meet a new friend named Brutus who weighs in at around 120lbs...Yah thats 10 Herbies:


Eat something healthy, and enjoy the drive back home.............


ps- Don't mention Jason's issue with crumbs, it might give him a complex.

Friday, October 15, 2010

FIIIIIIIINZ!


I took Connor and Jason up to the True Ames fin headquarters and we came back with some goodies...That wood one is 75% bamboo (vs. fiberglass), vacuum bag laminated and weighs in at less than half of a regular fin.

Surfed it a few times now and am blown away with the smoothness of it; not a snapping flex at all in the 4a template like the glass ones but a flowing swooping flex that made me get back into a serious groove to keep the power on...very very very cool fin!!!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Filos



Its funny knowing how vastly different today is from just a year and a half ago, we all FEEL the same, right?

But everything, all the 'details' of life that orbit around the center (you), are a million miles from where you were before...I know I'm doing right because the feeling is the same every day, and the details grow and breathe around me and my visions of what's going on.


As long as your decisions are made from strength and not fear, somethingsomethingsomething......go surfing.




photos by:
1st: me (KL 'fro deep in trim)
2nd: Morgan Maassen (KL and I, shred sesh at the pre-warehouse house)
3rd: Kyle Lightner (me at work)

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Seasons of Strange


I wonder how many hundreds of times I've done the walk...It's almost a sacred passage now, from the shaping room to the resin filled mine that is the glass shop...