Halona

Halona Coleman doin' it way up in Oregon on the modified 5'5 t.Rev. I thinned out the overall foil and added a little more rocker at both ends on this one. Halona is the man, and I can't believe he surfs a foiled out 5'5". If I hadn't been shaping him boards for years now I wouldn't believe he could shred something that size. 5'10 and 185 lbs + a 5mm wetsuit that's 15 lbs wet...Halona is keeping it real. We miss ya buddy!!!!

surf | craft

Water Lines

Kew has been sending me LOADS of video so far this fall, he's gone bananas filming lately so frame-grabs are plentiful, above is Trevor accelerating back into the pocket on the througHull, I had to chose from 6 different grabs of the same textbook turn; Trevor has got this board DOWN and rides it like an extension of his superhuman feet. Call me stoked.

I often find myself looking at the water trails in pictures and video more than the surfer, it tells me what my boards are doing and how it's interacting with each section of the wave and how it reacts to each surfer's stance/style. Below is Connor on the 7'9 v.Bowls that I lent to Travers, all of the boards that show up are pretty much communal when they hit the sand so everyone usually gets good waves on most every board...Here's CJ Soloman locked in and working on his double arm stall..

Lastly, Kew sent me this one of myself locked into a little pocket, not much for water trails and research but man...that was a fun one :)

Clovis and Trevor

Clovis Donizetti from way over in Biarritz (France) graced Santa Barbara with his presence just after my trip over there not that long ago. We found him a fun left to work with, and I lent him my Siddhartha-covered v.Bowls after watching him shred one to bits in France. Trevor snagged the same board and found some rights the next day...Two really unique styles that are 100% the product of the waves they surf regularly. I really dug watching them back to back on the same board in totally different kinds of waves so I threw together this clip to share!

Tips for Life

My favorite horchata recipe:

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One of Those Days

Spencer Lyon finless flying on a radical little 4'11 that Connor shaped.

I Feel Goooooood

9'2 K&K Professional

10" flexer felt gooooood on my sunset session last night.

There's very little that makes me happier than good vibes in the ocean on and around boards that I built specifically for people...

this'd be an 8' v.Bowls for Will who I ran into in the water, on

their maiden voyage together and having a blast.

A fine foil indeed, Will is 16 and has a few of my boards now, I'm guessing this one will

end up being in toe most of the time this winter after their first surf!

8' v.Bowls for Mike...the fabric was found in an antique store and labeled 60's KLM, guessing an airline fabric? All's I know is Mike called me when I got out of the water last night and was raving about his multiple tubes and shred levels being through the roof...I was starting to feel good by the time he started describing his double-arm-stall tuberides over the phone.

7'4 v.Bowls for Jesse who reported a pair of noodle arms after catching so many waves in the late afternoon. Jesse is used to smaller boards and wanted something to battle the crowds with and groove and flow through sections with a bit more ease, her first reports proved quite positive :)

A smooth operator...7'4 is a really clean and round size for this template, I'm finding:

So my evening was pretty flippin great, hearing all my new v.Bowlers ranting and raving after a little swell filled in our favorite waves on the low tide. I can't help but feel pretty proud of my creations today, especially after taking them all the way down to Sacred Craft and making people wait just a liiiiiittle bit longer for 'em.

Thanks for making my week Will, Jesse and Mike!

E* for Tally

Gregg Tally [of White Owl Surfboards] asked me to build him an Evening Star while I inhabit his shop/during the sorting of my new space...so I did:

8'6" x 22" x 3"

I've been really into circular deck patches lately, especially on a few boards in particular...This one didn't quite dodge my obsession...

The triple stringer blank is from US Blanks, which came out oh-so-sweet. And I couldn't help but polish her all the way out after getting all burnt-tangerine with the resin...I'm proud to have made this for Gregg. It's been a humbling experience being able to fling my resin and foam dust around his shop and I'm more than happy to have shaped and glassed this board start to finish, so here's to 100% hand built products:

Craft'ed

Sacred Craft just came and went again. What a weekend!

The roar of conversation in that building every year is close to deafening, and this year was no different; what I'm sure is BILLIONS of people coming in and out all day long, talking story and old times, shapes and design ideas plus art and everything else that shows up. It's truly another universe in there for two very full days.

Saturday morning I shaped a 7'6 v.Bowls variation out of EPS, the toe side is a double ender template (the nose of v.Bowls flipped at center) and foiled down to a decently bladed hull rail/bottom shape (not the normal v.Bowls foil).

The heel side's nose is pulled in about 1" and the widepoint is pushed back to it's normal zone behind center, with a slightly rolled bottom to spiral vee off the rounded-pin tail. The rails are thin and turned down, especially at the tail, which is semi boxy and poised to release like nobodies business...What I'm aiming for is an outrageous projection off the toe side and a high performance v.Bowls heel side to transition that power/speed onto for controlled, heavy cutbacks.

photo | kew

The boards got a really warm reception and the 6'10 finless that I shaped for Pat took the cake for more felt up board in the stack, followed closely by my 9'2 k&k professional. I'll be snagging photos of all the boards shortly as Herbie and I recover from the weekend!

As My Mom Used to Say...

Ready

spaghetti.

See you guys at Sacred Craft!

yeeeeeeeeHEW