Some of my most fun days were where some little beach peaks were coming out of nowhere, no one was interested enough to join me, and I had all the fun to myself. No crowd, no vibe, just me and Mother Nature in tune, like I was the only one to get the hint. Yup, those days have more value than the "big days" where I got some size, had a little fun, all faintly remembered. Those have all faded into one nameless, faceless menagerie of obscure wave. My favorite waves were usually hull related, thanks Greg.
Some of my most fun days were where some little beach peaks were coming out of nowhere, no one was interested enough to join me, and I had all the fun to myself. No crowd, no vibe, just me and Mother Nature in tune, like I was the only one to get the hint. Yup, those days have more value than the "big days" where I got some size, had a little fun, all faintly remembered. Those have all faded into one nameless, faceless menagerie of obscure wave. My favorite waves were usually hull related, thanks Greg.
ReplyDeleteFine method of telling, and enjoyable article to acquire factual statements.
ReplyDeleteclear water concepts
Agree..
ReplyDeleteI used to surf
Ponte vedra beach alone
in florida on waves like this
On my hull...
Before I moved n
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