Watch this clip from the Hot Generation (1967), watch the way they use their rails and surf the wave; the lines they're drawing and the TYPES of waves they're surfing. the subtle (and sometimes not) style and flow.
Then watch this...TWO years later. thats TWO seasons of surfing, check the DRASTIC change in the same surfers, same general waves and check out the progression this crew was making.
Notice the edges and shapes that were catching in the first video, then check the changes in shape and curves in these boards...still longer shapes, flat rockers, more curvaceous and more flow. In particular check out 1:30-1:38, the bottom turn to top, then deep cutback...gnarly:
THEN this. Ted Spencer is a good one to watch through the three videos, same basic style; different use of the wave all together. Same stance, knees, hands everything...different rythm and flow.
Only 4 years apart. It blows my mind what these guys did. Also notice that through all 3 videos different guys used shared the same board... Indicating to ME that they weren't just popping out boards, they thought them through, crafted them together, and rode them together.
A seriously beautiful way to do it and a really interesting progression and way to see it in a visual form which I don't see too often; articles and photos are great but to see it so plainly really paints a clear picture for someone that has a more visual thought process.
4 comments:
dat supa 8 is supa supa
wow.. their ability to hold a line, to stay in the pocket, to find a tube and actually come out of it.
that's progression.
really clean blog layout homie
Great find. Thanks for point this out. I love the way those guys surf.
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