Friday, October 30, 2009

2 for You

Glad to have a real camera again...T.Gord groovin' on a 7' hullibut.

Fast Little Board

Trevor via Morg, fast little board via PC.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

5'6 VeloSim

White pigment with hand foiled Red Oak glassons.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

My Daily Drivers, Explained:

Here's something interesting I've been working on for a couple seasons now that I thought I'd share with you guys.  I was recently asked what I'm stoked on right now and aside from my alltime favorite board, the new paisley one, this is it.

What we've got goin' on here are hull curves and basics (rail line, s-deck, rails, rocker) fitting into a more user-friendly template for average waves..  This design/style is my board of choice in reef and beachbreaks normally.

They trim and bottom turn like a hull, full railed and fast (singlefins pushed up!!) but when you get back over the fin it turns like a modern singlefin.  It also allows a fair amount of snap off the top on a good section, and long, springy, connected roundhouses off the whitewater.

The bottom shape is a belly into rounded tri-plane with a double concave within, that transfers to single out the fin and tail, making the board easy and not sticky rail to rail, but fast when you dig that hull rail line into a bottom turn or lock into trim.  If you flatten off the tri-plane area in the nose and mid section into a harder edge, you're going to have a much quicker, skate-like feel (i'd suggest a twin fin setup at that point, like murray and mimmons).  The design is translating into pretty much everything I do these days, shorter stubby board share much of the shape, as do my bladed hulls...its becoming a very nice all around flow master that I'm very proud of!

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Ye Olde Shaping Shack

Ex-PC stomping/shaping grounds, has been demolished to make way for a new hotel...
(new board pics tomorrow!)

Monday, October 26, 2009


Fall. F*ck, Yeah!

Saturday, October 24, 2009

PC Keel For Sale!

Nick is selling a 5'10 x 21 x 2 5/8" keel fish i shaped him a while back (check the oldschool logo), this one rocks, i was just oogling the photos of it the other day for some reason and then POOF its up for sale...if you're interested email me ( ) and i'll get you in touch with him asap!
this board holds what may be my favorite fins ever...brought back a bunch of yellow cedar from a trip to the northwest (home) a few winters ago and made a very few sets of those!

The Asymetrichull

My new winter board is done, and I surfed it last night.  

I love it.

The belly is continued deeper through the tail, the foil is flattened a little in the tail to compensate for thickness flows being moved, and the asymetric tail is a trip.  Couldn't be happier to own this one!
Initial feelings are very very positive by everyone who rode it, best development is the ridonculous juice out of the bottom turn, extra buttery and VERY fast on rail...this one will be a permanent model for sure...the deck art is an Indian fabric inlay and I can't express how much I love this board :)

Friday, October 23, 2009

Not So Hard...Try It!!!!

Heres Tosh during his second hull-session on his red/white hullibut...snagging a nice one! 

Tosh further proves my theory that if you understand how waves work and appreciate clean, fast lines that most singlefins make, a hull will be pretty much second nature for you and put you in a whole new realm of speed and bliss...seriously, if theres a decent wave near you, try a hull, you just might enjoy it :)

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Feels Like Forever

Much has changed...much has stayed the same. 

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

All this time you were chasing dreams...

...without knowing, what you wanted them to mean.

so, hows it gonna be...

when it all comes down,

to cycling trivialities?

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Catch Some Light and You'll Be Alright

        1) VeloSim - Pete M.
2)Keel - Blake P.
                 3)Flex Spoon - Surfer's Jp.

Monday, October 19, 2009


Here's a sweet little pair of boards...a 5'3 Trev and a custom 5'8 fish-style diamond tail, headed across the pacific!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

For Salez

I don't like to do this, but, i have some projects that need funding and i know the guy that makes these, so i'm letting this one go...7'11 x 22 1/2 x 3 mini glider.  dark violet pigmenttop and bottom, stringerless blank.  great condition with very very few pressure dents.  asking $450:

5'5 Twin Fish, very foiled out tail and nice rails, not blocky things...i hate those.  $475 brand new, no finsies:

It's low tide, do you know where your friends are?

T.rev trying out Taylor's 5'1 sim, connecting the dots through the cove!

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Saturday Bonus

Jonny's 7'11" x 22 3/4" x 3" MiniGlider, a super refined transitional era type shape built for hull style down the line speed and super smooth carves.  

Goooooood Day!

I had a fantastic Friday, hope you did too :)
hope to have a couple pics of the wave that already made my winter soon!

Trev and the hullibut had a great day...

So did Albers and the vamp...

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Big Black Nothing, The Details

So, here we are.  It's done, and it's called Big Black Nothing.

I'm figuring out where to start, because 1) I don't know who exactly is reading this, and 2) I just plain don't know where to start.  Through lots of hairbrained thoughts, two hour long talks over pepperoni and garlic pizza, countless emails and a few sleepless nights, I put together what I think is a fantastic surfboard...The idea itself went through probably 5 different stages and morphed in my brain for the past two years or more, and only has seemed like a possibility since I built my first flex spoon a few months ago.

The idea revolves around the basic principal that Greenough and others followed and continue to follow every day, twist + snap = projection.  Our flex fins do it every time we twitch our toes, glass panel flex tails do it when you lay into a bottom turn, and flex spoons do it without you even thinking about it.  

The board is as follows; a shortened Hullibut template, with the tail template ballooned out (think: as the tail twists, the template changes and pulls in), and the nose narrowed a tiny bit.  Basically an elongated velo style template.  Then, take the foam distribution of a Flex Spoon (where the rails contain the volume and act, depending on how they are foiled, as torsion bars to control flex), and add a neutrally shaped volume to the center of the board, allowing the whole board to twist, nose to tail, like a Spoon.  The volume of foam in the center does add stiffness, but I believe that is a good thing; when you're on a 5' kneeboard, your center of gravity is very low and you don't have much leverage, therefore the flex should be quite soft.  When you've got 6'10 of board, and the load is applied to one specific region of the board (under your feet), the flex should be much stiffer so as not to wash out when you give it some juice.

The rocker was flattened to accommodate the flex, and the materials were changed drastically to reduce the weight that the added glass would give, as well as produce more float to counteract the volume that has been carved out.  
(showing the deck contour after the deck lamination)

The board is a 2lb EPS core, with varied layers of 6oz E, 6.2 oz Carbon twill, 9 oz S-glass, and Epoxy resin...and a vacuum bag.  Laminated materials work best when they have the proper resin ratio, that is to say that too much resin is heavy and brittle, too little will have air bubbles and will not be strong.  A vacuum bag is a contraption used most commonly in molding, where the bag is sealed around the wet-laminated "part" (board), and the atmosphere is sucked out of the bag, pulling the excess resin out of the carbon/glass, and giving an air-tight bond to the foam.  

I realize this much of the content may not be read, because this will only be interesting to a few people...but if you read this far, leave a comment, i wanna see who made it!
This board is by NO means perfect in terms of build, this is the first time I've used the full eps/carbon/vacbag trifecta, it was intense, mind numbingly complicated, and incredibly wonderful...the product is light, strong, and extremely complex.  I'm excited for the next two experiments (same build style, different shapes).

A ride report/initial impression should be today at the low far the coolest thing is when cars drive by the whole board vibrates like a guitar body...

Wednesday, October 14, 2009


Big Black Nothing in process.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Monday, October 12, 2009


So I made the drive down to sacred craft with the necessary tools, a spoon, a miniglider and a 5'7 twin for it all sussed out, and hit up sacred craft with my new camera.  What follows are the shots I took while walking around.

Hope you enjoyed them, I forgot the camera battery 300 miles north.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

A Swap Meeting

Two of these men control the quality of two of SB's best sushi joints...if you see them, be nice.  And they rip :)

Herbie was networking his ass off...