Just wanted to throw out a reminder to everyone, and a note to anyone who didn't catch it the first time around;
This month's bro-deal board is the She hull, 'till the end of this month custom She's are 'trimmed' (get it? hulls...trim...trimmed...get it?? ha!) down to $450.
Already got a few in the works for some fine, fine blogging friends, next month with be a surprise and a little change of pace, so shoot me an email if you wanna chat about my favorite She in the world!
...5am, hit the road and called Lightner to convince him to join me at Malibu for the day to deliver Albers' two new sticks, and meet up with countless other fellows.
Driving past Montecito, Lightner's famous Baja Bobby passes me on the left, we continue to cruise in the dark and pull up to 1st point around 6:30am to head high walls, stacked up the point.
Lightner surfs, I run into Warmjet after watching him tactfully slice apart a set wave in the morning light...I shoot b&w film in the meantime and chat with WJ about hulls and peoples senses of humor.
Albers appears, running from around the wall, looking for me his boards. His face lights up, and he belts out my favorite, "oh boy!". Shredding of the brand new Vampire hull ensues; more b&w film is shot...got a sequence of Albers cranking a bottom turn around an unsuspecting shoulder hopper; one of countless clean passes by the crew for the day.
Talking with Graham, Lightner and WJ on the beach, I see Jonny enter the beach with Sutho and Lalo in hand...J hangs out and chats with us for a while; extra bladey hull count is now 6...things are coming together nicely.
Lightner leaves for OC, we eat free food and watch people shred and collide...I surf and get mowed down by two loose boards in a set wave, one to the forehead and one to the shoulder. stoked!
Meanwhile the girls, Worm and Gilda, are hulling and logging their brains out while we all chat about rails and bowed legs.
I slept on the beach for two hours in the mid day sun; now I'm nice and crispy. Got a lot of chatting done with the guys, a lot of shredding was had by all (photos soon) and Albers loves his Vamp Hull...thats a heck of a day!
Going to surf Malibu first thing in the morning tomorrow (sunday), meeting up with Alberz, Gilda, Erin and Graham...Bringing some luggage for Albers with me also:
7' Vampire Hull, which I'm pretty sure doesn't actually have rails...its more like two foiled halves of a board glue together at the rail line; and his first self-shaped d-fin log (we glassed it together..awwww) as well!
Tyler Warren and She hull seem to be getting along pretty well in Oz from the photos that Morgan sent me this morning; Tyler, Morgan and John Smart are driving around the greater part of Australia on a month long surf assault.
She hull made the flight over with Morg and from what I hear they're getting some fun waves out there!
If anyone in LA and/or Orange County is curious about these bladed little hulls that have been appearing in the lineups and the blogosphere lately, and want to see one in the flesh (or glass?), Graham down at Shelter Surf Shop in Long Beach now has a 6'9 in his hands (the Black Diamond).
The BD will be terrorizing the local lineups down south under some very talented feet. I'm REALLY stoked to work with Graham and can't wait to go back down and spend some time in the water and hang out with everyone!
We've had a series of conversations about my boards and my philosophies within shaping so I'm confident that he can help answer any questions you've got while checkin' the boards out!
A dear friend of mine sent me this email a little while back, I stumbled upon it today and thought it was still very pertinent to my own life as well as some very close friends of mine at the moment.
Enthusiasm and a Little Faith.
A lot of people think that Michaelangelo and Da Vinci were peers, compadres, even friends. The truth is that they were not...
When Michelangelo was a young stonecarver, toiling in relative obscurity, only known to a few ardent supporters, Da Vinci was a much adored, well established, widely known and incredibly affluent figure. The stories say when Da Vinci would galantly (and meticuliously)walk down the streets of Italy, surrounded by his throngs of admirers and hangers on, the roads would be closed by the sheer magnitude and pagentry of the occasion. Onlookers would state that his countenance almost charged for each noble step he took, for each brush stroke he laid down....Michelangelo, on the other hand, was an ever hard working, commoner...covered in dust from his stones and a shuck of disshelved hair -- a tribute to his reckless abandon. Yet his foward looking nature kept his feet on the ground, married to the idea that someday, he too would be known as a great artist. He was 20 when he began his true career with his sculptures of BACCHUS and the PIETA...
By 25 he had surpassed all the sculptors of his day....
In a fresco at the Sistine I, in the Last Judgement, (an old man of 60, at this point) Michelangelo painted St. Batholomew and his well know hide of human skin, resting in his hands... but instead of the Saint's face Michelangelo painted his own face...
...to me, this was a tribute to his undying belief that suffering was vital for true faith...real belief. Keep the faith. Plan for the future. H.
A lot of glass panel flextails are built with what seems (to me) like very little thought about actual function and flex dynamic, and more with 'coolness' in mind. When a glass panel is used, you're trying to create a variable tail rocker that has an accelerating curve when you lay into it; decreasing your turning radius and creating a really smooth, springy, tight and FAST reaction...
Most glass panel tails I've seen lately are not integrated into the board at all, they are more like a glass lip around the tail, which creates a hinge-type flex, which can actually cavitate and produce a whole lot of drag...THEN spring. Including the panel into the board itself is essential to making a flextail work well...thats where you begin to integrate the panel into the board's design, instead of creating the panel as an afterthought.
The tail on Nick's 6'3 (in the photo above) is foiled out using the finbox as a central twisting point. Twist in a board is not usually a good thing, but in this case it is exactly what we are going for, twist creates smooth rocker curves and uses the other side of the board to un-twist it and project you quickly out of a bottom turn, or tighten your arc. The tail is foiled about 12" from the end of the board, just past the finbox; and thins all the way down to 8 layers of glass at the tips of the tail (watch your ankles!).
Hey Everyone! I'm really sorry for the absence as of late; My computer crashed (still in the shop...) late last week and I ran away to the great rocky north for a secret surf/camping assault. For anyone with a board on order at the moment, I'm really sorry that communication has slowed; Boards are going to be pushed back a tad because of some recent family events, I'll be in Texas for the next week taking care of a few things, but shaping will resume very very very shortly when I get back to the shack and start foiling out all these hulls :).
in the meantime ill try to post a few new photos from the weekend up north, and maybe Morgan will send some photos (and/or video??? hint hint...) of She Hull in Oz! -Ryan