Friday, January 20, 2017


I've been working on a pair of experimental boards inspired by two of my favorite space-cadets, Mick Mackie and George Greenough.  I spent the first half of this winter riding a 7'10 edge gun (GG kind, big edge, flat deck, fat rails), and have more recently had my mind bent by a 6'10 Mackie sidecut fish (EPS).  The two boards at first glance share little in common, but after spending some really flawless and similar days on both boards I found the sensations and attributes of each weren't too far apart, and could likely borrow from each other somehow.  Both boards have an extreme hydroplane effect - the Mackie using the front end of the board for paddle power and lift, then the side-cut and tail providing all the looseness and speed one could ever ask for once the board is on plane (of course, this is oversimplifying the complexities of the design).  
The edge bottom gun does something similar in the way that the front end of the board provides seemingly limitless amounts of lift, and the tail end is the operating zone, where you pilot this big missile-board from (oversimplified but you get the idea).  

Being that our local waves are fast, smallish, and steep, both boards seemed to have small drawbacks that didn't limit the boards potential, but absolutely opened doors in my mind for how to modify the shape to explore something new for myself that might kind of work.  Like I said this is an experiment, and to quote GG, "nothing ventured, nothing gained."
I want to be clear also, that the design here was meant to accomplish one thing - Lots of connectivity, with extremely clean realease while planing at high speed in above average, fast, down the line conditions.  The idea wasn't to make the perfect board, but to chase a feeling.  'Peak Moments', as Mick describes them.  Maxed out sensations in specific situations and conditions.
The idea was to take the Mackie's tail end which felt flawless and fast, and use the edge bottom design to lift the forward part of the outline out of the water once at speed - thus lessening the effect of the slight bulge in the outline while driving hard down the line off the front foot.

Just before Mick left Santa Barbara a few weeks back, he and I got a chance to visit a small collection of 80's Greenough windsurfers that had just been purchased by a local collector - After thinking about mashing these two designs together it hit me that a big, releasing wing like the ones on George's old high-speed sail boards would provide the necessary room for the tail end of this idea to operate on its own, and at the same time allow some of the extremeness of the outlines curves to be lessened - The hard edge nose to tail on Mick's fish was basically stretched and narrowed, then set into the outline of a kind of speed-egg of sorts.
The venture here was not to make a board that was better or perfect or even super 'useable' - but more to see if I couldn't combine some of the new favorites in my quiver, that seemed like they could enjoy some of the benefits of the other, and make an excruciatingly fast, positive, responsive SOMETHING that would keep me entertained and excited during a few week long flat spell.  Lots of my favorite boards have come out of a need to shake it up a little and this pair follows suit.  Averaging 2-3 hand-shaped boards per day 5-6 days a week, shaking it up a bit every now and then is a must!
There is a lot more physical exploration to do with these (by that I mean surfing!) and I'm hesitant to say too much before they've been surfed into the ground, but after a few sessions on the 7' (shaped out of Varial foam) I'm extremely optimistic about the smaller (EPS foam), which should hit the water tomorrow as this swell fills in.  So far it feels lively and connected off the tail, with the highlight of a ride being a biiiiig long swooping kind of line top to bottom.  We've been filming the sessions, and there will be a follow up video of the build and first few surfs with multiple different surfers - we'll have to be patient for that one, as the waves have to cooperate too ;)

The 7'10 edge gun

The board on the left is the 6'10 EPS Mackie Designs fish that I've become so fond of in the last two weeks.

Greenough sail board detail - all surfaces are convex, all edges extremely crisp and clean.
Super efficient and I can only imagine super fast!!

The 7' - shaped out of Varial foam.  note the edge includes the side-cut, making the board transition onto rail super clean and quick.

Mid-glassing the 7'.  Polyester resin, Varial foam, carbon fiber + kevlar flex panel tail.  In this photo I was filing the final layers on the tail before hotcoat and sanding.  The layers for the tail were added two at a time and let cure before deciding to add more or not - the final layup is about 8 layers, staggered, and layed up on the bias.  Very soft with a long accelerating curve when flexed - no hinge.

The 5'8 ( x 19" x 2 1/2") EPS foam, epoxy resin.  Double layer 4oz bottom, 6+4oz deck with a carbon deck patch, and the carbon flex tail.  This tail's flex is much snappier, and the length of the panel shorter, figuring that since its a smaller board, it'll be surfed in shorter, quicker lines than the larger version.  After surfing the 7', I'm encouraged about the possibilities of the 5'8.

You can see a clip of Trevor Gordon swooping on the 7' here:

Me on one of the better waves I got during the first session, lots of speed to burn, though theres little accounting for the turd trying to burn it :)

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

re vs. v

Heyo!  I thought I'd take a minute here to explain a few differences between two shapes that I've been getting tons and tons of questions about - the v.Bowls, and the re.Bowls.  'The v.B' being the veteran here, and the 're.B' being the newcomer to the party; hopefully you're decently keen on the characteristics of what the v.B does and why its become so popular (really solid paddle power for their dimensions, extra loose ball-bearing kinda roll rail to rail, locked in trim from the center with insane drive off the back foot).
The Trimcraft brand/project has become a little bit of an outlet for some new and old designs that haven't gotten enough of my attention due to how busy my shapign scheudle has been the past year or so, and I was excited to lend the re.Bowls design to the shapers as a bit of a technical challenge, and a really good design to master a few difficult curves that I've found extremely useful.
So with that all said,  its important to note that the re.B was designed as a compliment, not as a substitute or replacement for the v.B and hopefully the following notes are helpful in learning the differences and why they exist:

Deck Shape:
v.B:  Super dome from the center to tail, long flat nose (this is where a lot of the extreme foiling of the shape comes into play).
re.B: Flatter under the back foot, slightly more nose rocker (more forgiving, less ball bearing feel).

v.B:  Mellow belly/roll from the nose through the middle, with the curve apexing into a panel vee or spiral vee in the last 1/3 of the board (super fast in trim, lots of smooth and long projection off the bottom).re.B:  Mellow roll in the first 2' of the board, transitioning quickly into a triplane bottom with double concave through the back foot (quicker release when 'pumping', quicker transitions and better trim speed on flat sections of a wave; again, this plays into the lessening of the magical narrow-stance ball-bearing effect while adding to the shapes useability for beginner/intermediate surfers). 

v.B:  High in the nose, pinched 50/50 at middle, low/down in the tail with hard edge (important for the super fast trim they are known for).re.B:  High in the nose, transitioning quickly into 70/30 down rails through the rest of the board, down rail with hard edge in the tail (good speed on flat waves, quicker to release the rail from the face of the wave, more forgiving for beginners/intermediate surfers).

v.B:  Long and low, with accelerating curve in the last 1/3 of the board.

re.B:  Same base-line rocker, slightly more nose flip, and slightly less tail kick.

v.B:  Narrow round nose, widepoint back, round-pin or round/thumb tail (more extreme penetration in the pocket, more 'round' feel of the back foot).re.B:  Narrow round nose, widepoint centered, narrow round tail (more neutral handling, responds better to mistakes for beginners/intermediates).

If I had to sum in up, I would say the re.Bowls is going to be a better board for all around "eggy" surfing - its slightly more conventional, and lends itself well to a really wide audience of surfers - whereas the v.Bowls is more difficult to master in your first few sessions, but holds an extremely unique mind-opening ability in the long run which is why its developed such a cult following. Hopefully they are gateway drugs into each other, as any good pairing is!

Monday, June 20, 2016

v.Bowls Fin Placement Notes

After 5 years of v.Bowling in anything and everything, here is my best advice for fin placement and sizing on most v.bowls at this time.  I have a few variations on the v.Bowls fin - the 8.5" and the 9", both in thick or thin foil, this blurb covers those four options.  This is not a list of commandments, but a reference for you from my experience and talking with others.  Suitable substitutions in a pinch are also the Greenough 4a, and Skip Frye 8.5" flex fin from true ames.

For lighter to medium weight surfers or shorter, quick waves (beach break, weird reefs, or most any windswell waves) use the 8.5” thin foil v.bowls fin placed in the center or towards the back 1/3 of the box (for boards up to 7’6).  for boards over 7’6 go to the 9”.  for boards 7’2 and under add the FCS bonzer side bites to the thin foil 8.5” if you have the option for more release off the top and more response from quicker pumps.
use the thick foil versions for heavier surfers or more powerful carving in good waves.  Place the 9” in the center to slightly forward of center in the box.
Use the 9’ thick (heavy footers) or thin (most surfers) foil in all v.bowls over 7’10.  
For reference, I’m 6’2 and 195 lbs - I ride the thick foil 8.5” plus fcs bonzer side bites in my 7’2; thick foil 8.5” in my 7’4 (single fin), and thin foil 9” in my 8’ (single fin).  
Two great rules of thumb for fin placement to start:  place the trailing edge of the fin, in inches, the distance that the fin is tall; so for a 9” fin, go 9” off the tail.  This is a good rough starting point.  
If the board feels too loose or like its letting go from the bottom turn too soon, move the fin back.  if the board feels like it doesn’t release when you lay off the bottom turn, or like its tracking/has a mind of its own or a small anchor under it, move the fin forwards.  Move it in increments of 1/4” until it feels like a rocket ship thats reading your mind.


Monday, February 8, 2016

Undeveloped California Coast --- Save that ish!

People of California:

Come rally for our protected Gaviota coastline at the Coastal Commission’s public hearing in Morro Bay! The more people that show up, the louder our voice. Help save our coastline from development for our and future generations by going to the public hearing and supporting Dr. Lester in his position as Executive Director of the Coastal Commission. Appointees to the Coastal Commission are attempting to fire Dr. Lester. This would open the door for multi-million dollar housing and potentially CLOSE the coastline to public access and endangered species. If we don’t act now, over 1,000 MILES of protected coastline is in danger of development and closure.

Wednesday February 10th in Morro Bay at 10am at the Morro Bay Community Center Auditorium the future of OUR coastline is being decided. An astounding 1,000 miles of our beloved coastline is in danger if appointees to the Coastal Commission get their way. The public hearing this Wednesday is to possibly fire Dr. Charles Lester the Executive Director of the Coastal Commission who has protected our coast from development and closure.

Dr. Lester is the predecessor of the late Peter Douglas. Peter Douglas was “an aggressive and hard-nosed environmentalist, who spent more than 25 years running the commission and advocating forcefully for its independence. Months before his death in 2012, Douglas chose Lester from within the ranks of the agency as his successor, and the commission appointed him unanimously in 2011”.  Dr. Lester has maintained what Peter fought for: “Public access to the coast so that it wasn't just something that belonged to the rich," said Warner Chabot, former executive director of the California League of Conservation Voters. "Probably his greatest achievement wasn't what you see," he added, "but rather a political achievement  … He created a commission that enabled citizens to take direct action to protect their coast and be seen as equals with the very rich and powerful landowners along the coast” (Woo, Elaine).

IF Dr. Lester is fired the coastal commission will move forward with:
Estate development on the bluff east of Naples that would obliterate a prolific white tail kite nesting site, disturb one of only two harbor seal rookeries on the Santa Barbara South Coast, destroy longstanding public access, and directly facilitate a 10 lot subdivision on antiquated Naples lots” (Gaviota Coast Conservancy).  

The more people who can attend the meeting or write in a comment to the commission will make a difference. Come Wednesday the 10th at 10AM to the Morro Bay Community Center Auditorium where the coastal commission is holding a public hearing to decide the fate of Dr. Charles Lester’s job and the fate and future of our coastline.
PLEASE come and save Dr. Charles Lester’s job and OUR coast!


Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Fist of 2016

Spent the first week of 2016 building this 7'4 pin-tail start to finish so work out a few ideas I had floating around - mainly the tinted gradient resin panels fading over a fabric inlay; this textile was designed by my girlfriend Katie McLean for an upcoming line for her company, Psychedelic Honey.

Thursday, December 3, 2015


Brad Martin enjoying Ireland on a 6'8" Mr.Fantasy

Friday, November 20, 2015

Shred Show Interview

HIZZAW for social anxiety!
Buuuut seriously, thanks to Shaper Studios for having me down a number of months back.  I've spent my life avoiding as much public speaking as possible, stoked you guys forced it out of me - I had a great time!!

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Thick Lizzy

Prototype at 7'10 from mid winter 2015

Thick Lizzy from Ryan Lovelace on Vimeo.

My favorite round pin template used as the nose and tail template to make an identical 50/50 outline.  glider style 70/30 down rails, triplane bottom with deep double concave through the tail.  Was going for a mini-glider kinda thing, with lots of hold and bite on the rail to handle steeper sections - have always liked more foiled out glider type boards, and this proved a good time to explore one.  Vs. the v.bowls - Thick Lizzy rides high on the water's surface and planes out faster in lower-quality surf; can also be cheater-fived for miles.  We've found it to be a good compliment to the v.bowls as a longer alternative with a different approach to rail line and foil distribution.

Friday, March 6, 2015

Trevor || Soopersnake

photo: Nick Liotta

photo: Donnie Hedden

Monday, February 16, 2015

The Shakes from Ryan Lovelace on Vimeo.