Friday, January 9, 2009

I'm Having Trouble Typing

Because i just finished up the best day of surfing i have had in years.
Started off with a couple hours at c st this morning with Kyle, Morgan and a new friend Steve. We got into some fun, lined up waist high waves on the new 6'8, feeling it out and finding it's natural lines...good times for sure.

Headed back north and checked in on the new shop...awesome progress, she's almost there; should be shaping in there next week easily!
THEN we (Kyle, his Girlfriend Lindsay, and I) went to rincon to meet up with the filling swell and the dropping tide; what did we find?

(by the way thats Kyle being burned mercilessly by a seriously grouchy and un-pleasant kook...the full, and incredible story HERE).

Waist high+ perfection, with just a few of us out in the sun on a friday afternoon...both of us on hulls, the waves got hollower and faster as the day wore on. I met a really hull-stoked fellow with the most beautiful style ever in the water that I want to get on one of my boards for some feedback as well...will be in touch with him soon for sure!
I got two or three of the best waves of the winter on the 7'0 Timberline hull:

Seed to burn, trim for days, and clean glide on the purest line I have ever felt on a hollow chest high wave...and good friends were there watching, does it get much better?

Fast forward to Morgan and Trevor showing up with some of my boards, as the sun is getting lower, and Trevor getting the wave of the millenium on his red 5'3.

(photo pre-redness, also shown in the header at the top of the blog)

...He blew my mind, so clean, SO fast and blowing up off the top and carving huge turns the whole way down the line on that little board at mach 10. THIS is why I shape surfboards...I'm so stoked to have seen him shredding that thing to pieces.
It made my year already (will have some photos tomorrow!).

THEN Jimmy Gamboa shows up with the hull he rode in Sprout, which was awesome to watch...myself, Kyle and Lindsay posted up on the rocks taking story, taking photos and video of all of our friends, heros, new acquaintances because we couldn't move after countless hours in the water...the sun was setting, the wind was offshore, the water was sheet glass, and the waves were lined up for days.

This is stoke.
I now sit at home, my body is aching, my skin is dry, my mind is slow and my fingers slower, and i simply cannot wipe this grin off my face.
and what am I doing tomorrow? Shaping a new experimental board for my friend Jeff, and showing a young friend from Santa Maria the basics of shaping so he can get started experimenting as well.
I. Am. Stoked.


LightGnar said...

thats what riding waves is all about brother :)


Bogus said...

today was amazing.

and Burt's Bees makes some amazing products to help your dried skin.

Le Vyusher said...

life is but a dream. So stoked for you.