Friday, April 3, 2009

Humble Pie

A little story behind, and the first ride report of 'H':

I had Ice9 build me a custom blank (they don't make 11' blanks as of this moment), and went with two 1/2" cedar stringers for maximum wood-age...the blank hung out for a while until i sacked up and shaped it...many many thanks to my buys at Ice9 for all the help :)

I ended up with what im pretty sure is personally my biggest accomplishment; this board is truly special to me; 10' 11 1/4" x 23 1/2" x 3 1/4"...belly to light vee bottom, s-deck and pinchy rails...i'm about 149% sure it's a hull...and my first wave today proved it. i was humbled to say the least.

glide in, pop up, bottom turn...easy...
glide in, pop up, sink 10' of rail and eat poop...reality.

second wave: money!
didnt take me long to figure out what the board is best at...going balls out down the line as high as you can sit in the pocket.

I caught some SCREAMING head high waves today, i surfed with my breath held and very very light last wave even showed me a draining barrel on the inside sandbar, 10'11" pintails and barrels are made for eachother, and hurt like hell when you space out and forget exactly how much board there is beneath you.

tomorrow we're having a date with another fabled point up north...i couldn't be more excited...

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