Monday, August 9, 2010

Step 4!

Step 1) get a hull
Step 2) ride it
Step 3) gather your thoughts
Step 4) write me an email...

here is Eric's email from yesterday:

"Ok I am finally writing this because I finally got to get a taste of
the red board on the kind of wave it does its magic at...
rode malibu - I have to say, I am embarrassed to say, I think I got
one of the funnest waves of my life on it -- on a crowd-gone-home,
dark evening lined up
(besides my first wave ever as a kid, going straight in hawaii).

Damn that board is epic.  This is a very special surfing, surfing
points on such thin railed, forward, flat, awake foiled dreams.  (for
those of us who like to surf small waves, and with feet somehow
parallel, in some psychedelic and remembered death kind of way, chop
up the babylon flavor in a metaphorical meditation

Thank you!  I can't wait to get it out to a long lined up point again,
some midweekday.



Miltshake said...

which shape is this?

Ryan said...

7'4" vvvvampire :)